A rare three decade vertical tasting of Ata Rangi Célèbre was held in Martinborough on 16 August, bringing together 13 vintages from 1994 to 2024 — almost certainly the most comprehensive public examination of the wine ever staged. The tasting was both a celebration of my first local wine love and a tribute to Ata Rangi founder Clive Paton. Clive and winemaker Helen Masters attended, offering reflections on the wine’s evolution and the estate’s history.
Long overshadowed by Ata Rangi’s globally acclaimed Pinot Noir, Célèbre has nonetheless built a loyal following. The tasting underscored its distinctive lineage, including the enduring presence of Cabernet Franc and even a whisper of the heritage hybrid Siebel. These threads speak to the constancy of Ata Rangi’s ethos: authenticity, site expression and an unwavering commitment to flavour over fashion.
The lineup drew on my personal collection from 2014 onward, supplemented by older bottles sourced from auction and two from the Ata Rangi library — including a superb 1995 magnum gifted by Clive. Older corksealed wines were pre-tested with a Coravin and decanted; recent screwcap vintages showed pristine condition. Tasting from oldest to youngest revealed a clear stylistic arc across three decades.
Without delving into individual notes, the overarching impression was one of remarkable consistency and longevity. The earliest wines, approaching 30 years old, retained structure, freshness and aromatic complexity that spoke to meticulous viticulture and thoughtful blending. Mid period vintages showed increasing refinement, with greater harmony between Merlot, Syrah and the Cabernet family, and a growing polish in tannin and texture. The modern era delivered a confident contemporary expression: vibrant fruit, lifted aromatics and beautifully judged balance, reflecting vine maturity and Helen Masters’ precision.
Without delving into individual notes, the overarching impression was one of remarkable consistency and longevity. The earliest wines, approaching 30 years old, retained structure, freshness and aromatic complexity that spoke to meticulous viticulture and thoughtful blending.
Across all vintages, Célèbre’s signatures were unmistakable — savoury fruit, spice, floral lift and structural finesse. Even with shifting proportions of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, the wine consistently expressed Martinborough’s purity, restraint and quiet power. The evolution showed increasing sophistication, yet the core identity remained intact.
Every wine, even those with suspect corks, showed impressively well, underscoring Célèbre’s longevity and its faithful reflection of Clive Paton’s original vision, carried forward with equal dedication by Helen Masters and the Ata Rangi team.
John Penney is a local wine experience guide, educator and writer. A fuller account appears at www.wineinsights.org and on the Ata Rangi website.
