Twenty one years ago Graham and Daryl Margrain were running a successful block laying business in Wellington and “thinking about establishing a walnut orchard somewhere”. They attended the first Toast Martinborough and when Graham saw cases of wine stacked up for delivery at one of the vineyards his thoughts quickly switched from walnuts.
The original Princess Street block started off as a hobby with work being carried out at the weekends. However, they soon realised that they needed to hire somebody with experience. Ollie Masters was contracted to set out the vineyard and advise on varieties. Ollie planted as many Merlot, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines in a day as four of them had managed in a weekend.
The first ‘Vintage’, produced a barrel of Pinot and three of Merlot. Daryl remembers that they were so excited that they kept taking the cork out the barrels and having a sniff to see how the wine was coming along. Strat Canning joined Margrains for the second vintage in 1996 – and remains a key member of the team.
It was while on holiday in France in 1994 that Graham and Daryl saw small villas overlooking vineyards and thought that the concept would work well on their vineyard. A year later the first eight Roger Walker designed Villas were built – probably Martinborough’s first purpose built holiday accommodation. Being still a weekend operation had its drawbacks as the Woolshed, where Graham and Daryl lived on the weekends, was robbed three times, the burglars cleaning out the total contents each time. There are now fifteen of the very distinctive looking Villas, often attracting tourists for a photo opportunity as they drive past.
The millennium year was one of expansion with the Dry River Road block being purchased and then the late Stan Chifney’s, one of Martinborough’s original vineyards, added to the company. Wine is still produced for the Chenin Blanc vines planted here in 1981.
A disastrous fire in June 2002 destroyed the original woolshed which had been converted into a conference centre and facilities. This was replaced by the purpose built centre and facilities also designed by Roger Walker.
Currently half of Margrain’s production is Pinot Noir with the rest comprising Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and some Methode Traditionelle. The two and a half thousand cases of Pinot Noir produced these days is a far cry from the first vintage’s seventy five.
The permanent and seasonal staff are all local people, most of who have been with Margrains for many years, the low staff turnover is a matter of justifiable pride. Margrains remains a family owned company with the Café, which was originally leased, now also run by the family.
And what of the block laying business? It continues into its fortieth year in Wellington, now run from Martinborough.
