Martinborough Winery Cambridge Road restores ancient Totara barrels for new release in an industry first.
Crystal Veil 2023 marks the debut of a singular wine, one that not only showcases Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc but does so through the lens of an extraordinary vessel: a 90+ year-old cask made from Totara, a native New Zealand tree rarely, if ever, seen in modern winemaking.
Totara was used by early winegrowing pioneers for the fermentation and ageing of wines as far back as the late 1800’s.
Their use disappeared almost entirely by the 1980’s as European oak barrels and Stainless steel took their place. Fast forward to today and a small artisan winery in Martinborough is re-kindling this lost technique.
Lance Redgwell is the winegrower at Cambridge Road winery and he’s proud to share his latest work embracing the old ways.
“My love of the natural world we call home has inspired me to explore ways to honour this land and let it speak through my craft,” says Lance. “Winemaking is more than just a process, it’s an expression of place. In re-discovering the rare gift of native New Zealand timber in our wines, I hope to reflect the voice of Aotearoa and pay respect to its spiritual and cultural heritage, the people who have walked this earth before us and offer the taste of something unique.”
The casks in question, crafted in the 1930s, are a far cry from the standard oak barrels of today. First acquired from an old Brajkovich family winery in Kaikohe back in 2018.
Redgwell has been tinkering away with the restoration and re-introduction of these native barrels ever since.
“They provide lower oxidation levels and a more neutral wood profile,” explains Lance. “But beyond that, they carry mana, history, and a spirit that transcends a mere flavour profile.
This is about rekindling a connection to the past and the early history of winemaking in New Zealand.”
While this is a long-term project, the scale will always be limited by the number of barrels available. “My hope is that this effort will keep these barrels in use for another 95 years, inspiring future generations to take pride in New Zealand’s winemaking heritage,” says Lance. “And ultimately, my goal is to craft the most distinctly Kiwi wines on the planet— wine that speaks not just of place, but of history, tradition, and the land that nurtures it.”
TASTING NOTE
Crystal Veil 2023 is both clean and complex.
The Totara cask, imparts subtle structure and texture, what Lance describes as “a phenolic gift,” giving the wine tension and finesse, along with a faint, lingering memory of fennel seed on the finish. Whole-bunch pressed, wild fermented, and left on lees for nearly two years. With zero skin contact, low sulphites (23ppm), and an alcohol level of 12%.
Only 3,073 bottles produced.
ABOUT CAMBRIDGE ROAD
Cambridge Road Vineyard in Martinborough grows wine on a 2.2 ha site planted in 1986, using organic and biodynamic methods. We farm with minimal intervention to let the vines express the natural terroir and seasonal variation. Our winemaking follows a natural approach – wild ferments, low sulphites, no additives, and no filtering. This results in wines that are vibrant, alive, and a true reflection of place. While they source some fruit locally, their focus remains on nurturing their original home block.
