After the long, bright summer of 2016, the cool, overcast opening months of 2017 signaled the beginning of one of the region’s more challenging seasons. We saw rainfall more frequently than any season since 2004. If the summer was measured on the number of days in the swimming pool, it would be put down as one to forget, but the wine in barrel is revealing another story.
For most wineries, harvest began around the third week of March. A key feature of this season was the good level of seed and skin ripeness achieved at lower sugar levels than previous seasons. This was the result of lighter yields and a season that was not as cool as first thought.
Grapevine development and fruit ripening is strongly influenced by air temperature, so the summation of heat (Growing Degree Days) over the season was of particular interest. The final GDD, or measure of heat units over 10°C from September to April was around 1121, not dissimilar to the 14 year average of 1152.*
The stony gravel terraces of Martinborough, Gladstone and Masterton were a saving grace in this difficult season. Where other soil types would retain water, our deep alluvial gravels drain away rainfall and provide an excellent environment for grapegrowing.
Wine writer John Saker agrees that the season ‘presented winemakers with some curveballs’ and says “I’ve already tasted some very promising barrel samples from the Wairarapa, and experience tells me that difficult vintages can often surprise, especially with pinot noir. I do think some wineries were more adversely affected than others. The key will be to keep an eye (and nose) out for the treasures that 2017 will undoubtedly offer up.
“The general feeling here is that winemakers are proud of the wines in barrel, the product of hard work both in the vineyard and winery this season. Despite all the nail biting, the resulting wines are emerging bright, light on their feet, and with real charm.”
* Data collected from Walnut Ridge, Martinborough
